Miuccia Prada’s Jewelry Inspired This Mother’s Day Gift Guide

The designer has a vintage collection like none other

Miuccia Prada wearing girandole earrings in Vanity Fair (2019), small diamond pendant earrings and a Baroque pearl cuff in 2012 and an Art Deco plaque necklace and black pearls in Vogue (2024).

With Mother's Day upon us, I was thinking about how Gen Z, who are so limber with language, have made "mother" a popular term of endearment for high-profile women they admire. In the music world, Beyoncé and Taylor Swift are often referred to as “mother.” In the fashion realm, Miuccia Prada is a favorite “momma” and it’s easy to understand why.

While many of the designer's male contemporaries from the 1990s—Tom Ford, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries van Noten—have retired. Mrs. Prada, at 75, is still setting trends galore. And the Prada Group is defying the downward spiral in luxury and gaining traction. On top of all that, the Group just bought Versace, essentially making Mrs. Prada the "mother" of Italian fashion.

Her maternal quality is enhanced by the way she speaks, which often sounds like indirect sage advice. In an interview recently posted on the @whatmiuccia Instagram, she explained:

“I always try to say something with my shows, to get the spirit of the moment, or do maybe a subtle criticism, of something happening, and try to answer with my job which is my only instrument to what I see around.”

In 1998, Miuccia Prada sported girandole earrings and a 19th century tiered necklace.

The jewelry and “mother” moniker made me think: why not let Miuccia Prada inspire a Mother’s Day gift guide? Oh I know, lots of her jewels run into the price of rare treasure, but there are also items that cost about as much or less (!) than a Prada bag, coat or shirt.

I have gathered nearly 20 examples below ranging in price from less than $1,000 to six figures. If you want the look on a tighter budget, there a couple of nice costume dupes as well.

It should be noted before you begin scrolling through the options, Mrs. Prada has a couple of favorite jewelry shopping destinations. They are likely responsible for the lion’s share of her jewelry.

In New York, it is Fred Leighton. Rebecca Selva, Leighton’s longtime in-house client liaison, specializes in finding the impossible to find. She is known for working with clients over the course of many years to help them build their jewel boxes. Rebecca also collaborates with stylists to create the Leighton looks seen on the red carpet.

In Milan, the antique jeweler Pennisi is so dear to Mrs. Prada’s heart she wrote the introduction to the book Pennisi Collection: Three Centuries of High Jewelry: 1750-1950.

Hoops

Mrs. Prada generally wears gem-set or gold jewels, but she did something different at the 2012 Met Museum press preview for the Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations exhibit. The designer wore a yellow leather beret and a brown Miu Miu suit with vintage front facing hoops that look as though they could be made of tortoiseshell or horn.

I found a nice vintage costume look-alike in tortoise lucite by Trifari and Victorian tortoiseshell designs in a similar style.

Jet Jewelry

One way Mrs. Prada makes the classic silhouettes of her attire interesting is with texture. Just look at the coat, bag, shoes and dress she had on at the 2011 Met Ball in celebration of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.

She layered more texture with carved jet bracelets and a necklace. The jewels most likely date from the 19th century when jet jewelry was ushered into vogue by Queen Victoria as she went into mourning after her husband, Prince Albert, died.

Jet jewelry is relatively affordable, but finding a pair of bracelets is a challenge. In my search I only came across one pair. This necklace doesn’t exactly resemble Mrs. Prada’s, but it’s fantastic.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lion Necklace

Clearly, Mrs. Prada adores 19^th century jewelry, but she also has a few mid-20^th century signature designs from the big houses. The gold Van Cleef & Arpels Lion necklace, made in 1971 that she sported at the Spring 2023 menswear fashion show is a perfect example.

The design is a signature in Van Cleef’s Heritage collection and it sells for well over six figures at auction.

via Sotheby’s

Mrs. Prada showed her humor when she described the purchase of the Lion necklace in a 2021 interview with Business of Fashion’s Tim Blanks:

“This summer, I wanted to buy something a bit vulgar.”

Cartier 1970s “Jackie” Belt

As if the Van Cleef & Arpels Lion necklace wasn’t enough, Mrs. Prada paired it with a famous Cartier 1970s design for the 2023 Met Gala celebrating Karl Lagerfeld: A Line Of Beauty.

Jackie Kennedy popularized the Cartier vermeil belt with large, textured discs when she wore hers in Capri in 1969.

While the vermeil, which is silver topped with gold, may seem shocking for the luxury jeweler, the piece was a precursor to the less expensive Les Must accessory collection, Cartier launched in the 70s.

via 1stdibs

The price range for the Cartier “Jackie” belt, which can easily be found online, goes from four to five figures based on the condition. The gold on vermeil wears off. A restoration job adds to the cost.

This one, on the higher price end, shows the details of the design as well as photos of how it can be worn as a belt as well as a necklace. There is also a picture of Jackie in the jewel.

Girandole Earrings